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We'll Always Have Paros

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These stories were written by Canadian writer, Doug Lang.  His vivid descriptions make me love places I have never he visited.  He sees beauty and finds meaning in simple things seldom noted in tour guides.


Doug Lang is from Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan.  He currently lives in Vancouver, B.C. where he writes on a variety of subjects.  Learn more about him and listen to some of his songs at: 

http://www.myspace.com/dukelang  

 

Naoussa Paros

We'll Always Have Paros

 

Kolimbithres.


A little white sand bay across the water from Naoussa, on the Greek island of Paros.
There is a string of huts there.


Behind them, an old monastery.


The water is turquoise, so clear you can see to the bottom.  Sandra and I would float out on air mattresses each afternoon into the blue of the Aegean, look down into the water to see jellyfish far below.  The leather-faced fishermen would smile and wave hello to us as they put in for lunch.


One of those cabins was ours to use, loaned free by Desmond O'Grady, a mad Irish poet we met who'd gone back to Egypt to teach at the American University of Cairo.


In the early morning we'd walk around the shoreline into Naoussa for a nescafe and some fruit.  Some days they'd have risogolo, a Greek rice pudding with raisins, cinnamon sprinkles and goat's milk. The town would just be rising,  but the fish boats were out already.


All the plaster houses are white, painted and repainted all the time, a spirit practice, an invitation to the gods' blessings.  The cracks in the sidewalk are painted white, too.  The window shutters are painted blue, the same blue of  Greece's flag.  The sky there is a deeper blue. I think you see this blue when you go nearer the equator.


At the restaurants they let you go back into the kitchen to taste everything, the tkapodi, saganiki, kalamari, moussaka...and you order what you like best. It's much

better than a menu, don't you think?


These little islands are humble places, not heavily touristed.  You meet travelers in these places, people who bring  something with them true to the words of  St. Augustine who said the mistake most travelers make is they forget to take themselves along on the journey.


There'd be the melon man, shouting karpouzi! as he passed under the windows early.
People would shout down to him, he'd load their melons in the bucket they dropped on a rope, and they'd put the money in the bucket on its way back down.


There are wine vineyards on Paros. A man with a motorcycle taxi brings in the new wine each week from mid-island, up in the hills. We rode bicycles up there, to Lefkes, where there's an old marble quarry. Lefkes was in siesta hour, not a soul in her narrow streets but a hundred cats mewing to us. We walked into the taverna there. 

 

There was one person in it, the bartender, who was whistling to the songbirds in the large birdcage that hung from the high rafters, its door open.  The birds sang back to him, and he'd smile and chuckle. He brought us two ice cold Fix beers, said welcome

to us, then went back behind the bar to continue his little romance with the birds. We noticed how he felt his way to our table, noticed that his eyes were gone, the sockets empty, a scar trailing down by one ear.


In Naoussa each morning, we'd say kalehmehra, kalehmehra to the older women carrying water from the cistern, all of them dressed in black mourning clothes.

When their husbands die, they wear those grief clothes every day for the rest of their lives in honor of their departed loves.


Each morning we'd see a young boy named Stefano race a wheelbarrow filled with fresh-baked loaves of bread from the bakery to the cafe kitchens. He always seemed

to have flour in his hair. Old Mister Gavallos, the cafe owner would ruffle Stefano's hair, sending a poof of white powder skyward. It was a ritual they performed daily.

That bread tasted better for having seen that tender ritual.


At the harbor taverna, Yorgos and his wife, Marguerite ran the place. One year, Richard Winch, an English playright who comes to Naoussa each summer for a holiday, dropped a 50 drachma bill on the floor as he was leaving to go home.

The next summer when he arrived, Yorgos went behind the till and there, scotch taped to the wall, was the 50 drachma note.


I'd been playing guitar at the taverna most nights, until the fishermen needed to go to sleep.  Marguerite, through her son, asked if she brought Yorgos' concertina would I play a duet with him?  Certainly, I told her, it would be an honor. Her son, Dimitri, explained that his dad hadn't played in many years.


Two nights later Yorgo came out on to the patio by the harbor's edge and shyly approached my table.  He had the concertina strapped on.  We nodded, and I started to play something in a minor key, and he played, opened those bellows and let it go, a sad ancient song that floated out over the moonlit water. Everyone bent forward to listen.  The customers inside came outside, stopping their backgammon and dice games.

Some of the neighbors came from their houses down to harbor to hear Yorgos play for the first time in six years.  We were all crying, it was so lovely.  The fishermen stayed up late that night, drinking until their wives pulled their arms and took them home to sleep.


The rest of our stay in Naoussa, beers would appear at our table and when I went to pay Yorgos, his eyes ashine with feeling, would put up a hand and say endaxi, it's okay, the beer is free.


At last we'd say good night, kaleenichta! and meander the ten-minute walk home to Kolimbithres, the moonlight helping us to see.  On nights with no moon, we'd walk

more slowly, careful of the rocks, breathing in rhythm with the tide, stopping to hug and kiss.  We were in love then, Sandra and I.


We were newlyweds, we had paradise all around us and inside us, too, and Paros was our honeymoon.  

Doug Lang  c2003

All Rights Reserved

 

 


 

The Old Port Heraklion

We hitchhiked all over Europe that year, Sandra and I. We had read Ed's book about vagabonding in Europe, how small the cars are, and had followed his advice about having smaller, frameless backpacks. Having smaller packs meant leaving some things behind, finding them in Europe if we needed them, sometimes being given them for free by the angels of the road. Good advice, Ed.

I did take a guitar, though, a beat-up Yamaha FG-180 and five sets of medium gauge strings, too.

Sandra's a beautiful creature. She had long black hair in those days that blew back from her high brown cheekbones and deep brown eyes. I think when you travel with a woman as lovely as her, the rides tend to come a little easier.
I suppose I could've worried that we'd attract the wrong kinds of rides, but we didn't, not once, and we were over there almost a year.

Instead, we found the generous ones, the good souls of the world.  I'm thinking of crazy Gerry and dapper Dave in Bath, of Phoebe and Richard in Sherbourne in Dorset, of Gerdi and Margaret in Kerkrade in Holland, of Gianna in Venezia and another Gianna in Roma, Isis from Cairo, Ahmed and Zaffir from Karachi, and the madman Irish poet Desmond O'Grady in Naoussa, Paros, and of Yorgos and Marguerite, too, who ran the tavern there where I played almost every night and was never allowed to pay for our food or drinks. One night Marguerite asked if I'd play with Yorgos if she brought his accordion down. He hadn't played it in a few years, she said, her son Stefano interpreting for me. We played and sang and everyone cried, including me and Yorgos. The fishermen stayed up late, too.


I once saw a girl in Vieste, Italy find four or five lemons floating in to the beach.
She was very happy to find them.  Later that night, I saw her again sitting with her parents with a hundred or so townfolks in the piazza as we watched a movie that was projected against a white-painted wall...Doug Lang

 

LEMONS

She was carrying these lemons
They came in on the tide
She had her skirt up like a basket
And the lemons were inside

Where did those lemons come from
So yellow and so new?
She was running with her skirt raised high
The water soaking through

She'd been on the beach all summer
The sun had tanned her thighs
Sometimes you get to witness things
That are heaven to the eyes

Her long hair dampened by the waves
Dark curls upon her brow
She loosed a cry of careless joy
I still hear it now

It was our second honeymoon
So in love we were
I need only touch a lemon now
And I think of her

She was carrying these lemons
That floated on the tide
She had her skirt up like a basket
And the lemons were inside

Doug Lang c2004


THE CUP

The cup was white once. He held it in his fisherman fingers
as he sat on the porch stoop toward sundown. Over time the cup
had absorbed stains, stains so deep that even after a soaping
and scouring it remained a sad vanilla, brown in the crevices.
One day he simply stopped trying to get it clean.

There were other, newer cups in the cupboard but he never took
them down except when pals came by wanting coffee. They 
came less frequently now. He had an idea why that was. When
she left, he'd allowed her to take most of the dishes, the pots and
wooden spoons. He kept his cup. It was white then. Her skin was
white. Everything was white then.

From the porch he could see into the neighbors' yard, the neatly-
arranged patio, the barbecue, rakes and shovels, trowels hung
on nails, rose bushes pruned back for another year. Other people
always seemed more organized. He'd seen Mrs. Pavone use two
dozen different cups over the period he'd stuck to his one and
only. She had floral pattern cups, big yellow ones, tall and stately
black ones, cups she only brought out in summer when friends
were invited back from the country club. He was embarrassed then
to sit where she could see him, and would go around the front of
the house, sit in the shade with his old cup, drink his steaming
coffee alone.

He bought his coffee from the young Latin couple who ran the
little deli up the avenue. After trying six or seven kinds, he'd
settled on the dark Peruvian beans. He'd read a story once about
the soul of black Peru, and had seen a photo of a woman who
looked like she'd come out of a fire. When he drank his coffee, he
thought of her sometimes, imagined her in the other room, in the
bed where no woman had been since his wife had left, waiting
for him now to finish his thoughts, tie in his boat, remove his
old boots. He'd bathe first, rub open lemons along his arms and
on his hands to take away the smell of the fish. In his dreaming,
he would ask her things, and she would tell him of Peru, of the
soul of black Peru.

He collected books, in Spanish and in English, but the books were
like the other cups in the cupboard. He would read them with good
intentions, then stop fifty pages in, bend the top corner of a page,
set the book on the table. There was a stack of these books now,
ones he knew the beginnings of, but not the ends. It was The Old
Man And The Sea that he read again now, Hemingway's little
novel about the fisherman whose great fish was eaten by the sharks.
He'd read this book many times, until its pages were creased. He
most loved the parts where the old man dreamed of the Gran Ligas,
of the great DiMaggio, and the parts where the boy, the peasant boy,
would come while the old man slept, dreaming of the lions. He knew
how this story ended, a dream uninterrupted.

Cup of memories, warm in his hands. Black coffee, the beans from 
Peru. The cup was white once. Everything was white once, and clean,
and new. Then a day arrived when the whiteness was gone and no
amount of scrubbing could bring it back. That was the day he knew
the cup was his. 

Doug Lang c all rights reserved

Coffee cup on Saucer by Anthony Ulinski